| The
fundamentals (2) : taste
Before
starting to analyse in a methodical manner the techniques
used by wine-tasters to describe a wine, it is necessary
to start by defining taste.
The dictionary tells us it is the sense which enables
us to discern the flavours of food by using the tongue
as an instrument.
But, by limiting taste to the perception of flavours
this definition doesn’t seem to correspond to
reality.
Today, we consider taste
more as a global sensation made up of several components.
The first of these is without doubt the visual
aspect. Colour
is in fact an integral part of taste. Try this simple
experiment. Give someone a glass of red, Grenadine
cordial coloured with a neutral, green, colouring
agent then observe the reaction of the person tasting
it. You will see that people have more confidence
in what they see than what they taste.
The way a table is laid and decorated is important
and we all know that well-presented food seems more
tasty.
Another essential constituent is the olfactory
element. Who can separate olfactory
and taste sensations? It is a well-known fact that,
when we have a cold, the things we eat and drink seem
to have no taste. But, in truth, only our perception
of smells and aromas changes. Flavours remain intact.
The flavours
detected by our taste buds are one of the essential
parts of taste. The flavours, sweetness,
acidity, saltiness and bitterness
are the ones people know best although many others
exist. For example, liquorice
or ‘unami’
(sodium monoglutamate) which is used to enhance taste
in Asian cuisine.
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Tactile
sensations are also perceived in the
mouth (consistency, viscosity etc….) as well
heat sensations
(temperature, alcohol …). But there are other
sensations we shouldn’t ignore which play an
important role in our perception of taste. These are
the sensations of irritability
or pungency
(chemical irritability) caused by sulphur, alcohol,
vinegar, pepper, mustard etc.
The panorama would not be complete without the auditory
perception. For example, we know that
noise made by crunchy, crusty, food is part of taste.
Of course, we cannot include this sensation when talking
about wine, although we remark that it is difficult
to taste correctly when there’s a lot of noise.
If we accept taste as the combination of all these
different sensations, the examination of each one
will be the framework of the method used by tasters
to judge the characteristics of a wine.
All tasting sheets are divided into 4 parts :
1. The Eye
or Visual Aspect.
2. The nose
or olfactory aspect.
3. The mouth
or gustatory aspect.
4. General impression
and Conclusion.
By following this order in a methodical, progressive
way and by using the appropriate vocabulary, we will
be able to express more easily what we appreciate.
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