| The
art of tasting (3)
As
mentioned before, taste is a global sensation with several
constituents. The visual element is one of these, so,
it is normal to start our tasting experience with this.
Every tasting starts by observing the robe,
or colour, of the wine.
Thus, a red wine will be …………red,
a rosé wine …..rosé and a white
wine ……..yellow.
(Yes, milk is white, not wine!).
This may seem very simplistic, but, for example, if
we look at a red wine, is it violet-red, purplish-red,
garnet-red, orangey-red, brownish-red, blackish-red,
brick-red etc….?
If it is simple to determine the colour of the wine
in our glass, defining the hue or shade is more difficult.
However, naming with precision the hue of the wine is
important because it already gives us a lot of information
about the wine.
- Information on the grape
variety (for red wines only).
All
the noble grape varieties used to make quality red wines
are black skins with white juice. The colour of the
wine therefore, doesn’t come from the juice but
from the skins and is transferred during the maceration
when the juice is in contact with the skins. As the
colouring matter is different from one grape variety
to another, we will find different shades and tints.
Wines made from Pinot Noir will be ruby-red, from Gamay
more purple-red, Syrah or Shiraz, blackish-red and Sauvignon,
brownish-red. Be careful though when interpreting the
colour as certain wines can reserve surprises.
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Information about the stage of evolvement of the wine.
I
prefer to talk about maturity rather than age, as,
like people, the idea of age is relative and certain
old wines may seem young while some young wines may
already be tired.
To resume, a pale golden robe with green tinges or
red with a violet fringe makes us think of a young
wine with a certain liveliness and freshness while
an amber colour or tile-red colour will probably be
more supple with wilder aromas.
If the hue is one of the essential constituents of
colour, it is not the only one as we must take into
consideration the intensity of the colour. Two wines
with the same hue can have a different intensity.
A red Burgundy, for example, can be light ruby-red
or dark ruby-red. Did you know that until the middle
of the 19th century, the wines from Pommard were ’primeur’
whose colour was ‘oeil de perdrix’ or
partridge-eye (between pink and red) because they
only had a short maceration.
Today, consumers prefer more coloured wines obtained
by a longer maceration (2 to 3 weeks) giving a more
intense extraction. But this intensity also depends
on the ripeness of the grape at the time of the harvest,
the yield, the age of the vines and the type of soil.
As for the wine taster, his interpretation should
stay modest. For him, the stronger the colour of the
wine, the more full-bodied and better structured the
wine should be.
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